After sunset in northern Alabama

Ten days and 4,133 miles, nearly all on secondary roads until Memphis on the return trip, then a quick trip on I-40 West to south of Santa Fe, New Mexico and back on secondary roads home. I met friend Ernie of Chattanooga and his son Christopher at the Barber Museum in Birmingham, Alabama. From there we rode to Tennessee through beautiful northern Alabama mountains on secondary roads, even gravel, ending at Lookout Mountain overlooking Chattanooga. From a base at Ernie's house in Chattanooga, we rode the mountains of the surrounding three-state area, staying in a hotel one night. Ernie chose to ride a BMW F650; I rode a Suzuki DL650.

Trip high points:

• Barber Motorsport Museum in Birmingham and the trip across northern Alabama.
• Touring the Smoky Mountains of eastern Tennessee, western North Carolina and northern Georgia on both scenic, paved highways and unpaved Forest Service roads, with friend Ernie, author of the "3 in 1 Map," the only map that shows all these roads in all three states on one map, available (when in print) from TWO.

Best of all: Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap. Imagine an open track day on public roads with riders going both directions and an occasional car or pickup for variety plus a few unpredictable back-markers in blind corners. Unbelievably, this is US129 with 318 curves in 11 miles of never-ending tight turns on narrow but good, clean pavement with significant elevation change. Double yellow lines are continuous but of course any one who can pass someone does. It's the most dangerous and fun public highway I've ever ridden. It's a biker's world. Even on a Wednesday there were probably 150 bikes in the area from at least as far away as New York and Florida (and Colorado). Several would be making a run at any given time but all eventually gathered at the Crossroads of Time at Deals Gap to swap stories and lies. The walls of the resort were covered with road-rash pictures. There have been several deaths over the years. I'm told law enforcement occasionally sends a helicopter and patrol cars for a crackdown but the race goes on. Motorcycle visitors support the local small town of Robbinsville, North Carolina and the nice hotel we stayed in had motorcycle-only parking up front with hose, bucket, towels and cleaning materials for motorcycles. Biker souvenirs were for sale in the lobby. Nice to be treated like first class citizens. Tail of the Dragon pictures

Next favorite: Cherohala Skyway in east Tennessee and west North Carolina. High elevation, limited access, light traffic, more bikes than cars, some fast sweepers, some tight turns. All fun.

Runner-up next favorites: The Richard Russell Scenic Highway in north Georgia and Highway 180, "The curviest road in Georgia," with some tight, steeply banked 180-degree turns that launch a motorcycle like a slingshot. Thrilling.

The DL650 performed flawlessly. I can't imagine a better touring bike for my needs, given that I have no personal interest in the comfort of a heavy touring bike and anyway want to ride unpaved roads. My longest day was 764 miles in 13 1/2 hours including 45 minutes for lunch. The previous day I did 668 miles. I was squirming but still, I probably won't be shopping for an aftermarket seat. I averaged 49.7 MPG for the trip. Great ride! Great motorcycle!

Gallery (click for enlargement)