Above 4 pictures from Davis Service Center website.

No. 5 DL650 V-Strom, a 2009 model, technically used but with only 332 miles when purchased by me on August 18, 2010, for all the reasons I've stated below about previous DL650's I've owned.

Sold April 19, 2011. Age and responsibilities suggested a less aggressive and/or adventuresome style of riding.

This is one of the DL650 V-Stroms set up for adventure touring by Davis Service Center under the direction of V-Strom rider and Big Dog veteran Billy Aller. This example has an SW-Motech aluminum skid plate, SW-Motech side rack luggage mounts, SW-Motech crash bars, Pelican case luggage set with SW-Motech locking quick-disconnect hardware, SW-Motech center stand and Suzuki OEM hand guards. I've set up several similarly equipped DL650's, KLR650's and DR650's and I'm very pleased to now have one set up by professionals.

—Verle Nelson, Cedaredge Colorado

March 7, 2011, 9354 miles: New OEM air filter, new spark Plugs (original spark plugs almost certainly didn't need replacement but once you have them out, why not. The air filter wasn't all that dirty, especially considering the hundreds of miles of dusty gravel/dirt roads I've ridden -- the intake is well protected but still, it helps to be alone or out front.).

March 4, 2011, 9114 miles: Oil & filter change.

March 2, 2011, 8929 miles: New Metzeler Tourance tires after 4700 miles on the Pirelli Scorpion Trails. 4700 miles may not sound like much to many riders but I'm pretty sure it's the best mileage I've gotten from tires in several years. Maybe the Tourances will last longer. They cost more and I seem to remember getting 7000 miles from the rear Tourance several years ago on DL650s. Surely my riding style hasn't changed enough to reduce that mileage by much.

February 24, 2011, 8447 miles: Installed new right turn signal lens (broken when the wind blew my V-Strom over on February 16).

February 17, 2011, 7868 miles: A strong wind gust blew my motorcycle over while I was taking pictures in Rattlesnake Gulch on February 16. The Twisted Throttle lock on the right-hand Pelican Case SW-Motech mounting hardware broke and the case fell off (Twisted Throttle has upgraded these locks since mine were made). Other damage was minimal: a few scratches here and there and the right front turn signal lens broken. I didn't trust this locking hardware anyway so I mounted the Pelican cases directly to the quick-detach SW-Motech racks as I had done in the past.

February 4, 2011, 6916 miles: Installed IMS Pro-Series stainless steel footpegs. They give much better grip when wet but also provide a more secure step for swinging my leg over the tail box when getting on or off. IMS still doen't list these footpegs for the DL650 but KLR650 footpegs, 1987-2010, fit without alteration.

January 29, 2011, 6839 miles: Installed an EMGO branded Chinese tail box like I had on my previous motorcycle, a 2009 KLR650. I really liked the box for it's rugged construction, price too good to be true (around $70 list) and included mounting plate with decent mounting hardware (except I substituted self-locking nuts for the mounting bolts). I never had trouble with this box on rough roads on the KLR in nearly 20,000 miles. It attaches like a Givi box so of course you want to press down until you are certain the catch clicks into place -- a little difficult when new but it soon gets easier. Size could be an issue for some as there is only one size and it's a bit small which suits me fine because I like the smaller somewhat-square look and it's fine as an easy place for me to lock camera and helmet when I visit a store or restaurant. I mounted it in minutes on the KLR, bolting the mounting pad directly through the plastic and underlying metal on the KLR rear rack. The DL650 has a cast metal rack with a honeycomb-like structure on the underside. While it might be possible to bolt through this, it would be tricky and I chose to use the mounting hardware that came with the box. This required removing the rack, removing (without damaging) the rubber pad, attaching the tail-box pad to the rack (no holes need be drilled using the supplied hardware--hint: use the clamping straps front to back and angled), trimming two bolts so they wont contact SW-Motech side rack hardware and then cutting access holes in the plastic pad for re-inserting the rack rear mounting bolts (I had no tool for this so I drilled holes then enlarged then with a rat-tailed file). I spent 2 hours at mounting this box but I'm pleased with the results. I see these boxes on DL650s so there must be an easier way as I'm guessing not everyone spent 2 hours at mounting. (It's possible the mounting would have been much simpler without the SW-Motech rack hardware held in place by the 2 rear rack bolts.) I didn't take pictures as these boxes are now so common (I believe they first achieved some recognition as J.C.Whitney tail boxes) but there is a web picture below in "Accessories I've added."

January 15, 2011, 6315 miles: Oil and filter change.

November 12, 2010, 4229 miles: New Pirelli Scorpion Trail tires. ("Trail" is an unfortunate name for these tires which are clearly adventure-bike tires with a street-biased tread pattern.) These are the tires that solved uneven wear problems on my recent KLR650 so it makes sense that I try them on the on the DL650. After all, Ducati chose them for the 1200 Multistrada S. I expect reasonable wear with aggressive riding (4000+ miles), a front tire that won't get trashed from hard cornering and a secure feeling when well leaned over in 100MPH+ sweepers. For what it's worth, I've long preferred a street tread pattern and normal tire pressure for fast dirt/gravel roads. I've been comfortable at speeds up to 105MPH indicated on dirt/gravel with the OEM Bridgstones and I'm sure these tires will be as good or better. To be fair, though, I love gravel roads and have for many years. (I don't like deep fresh-graded gravel or deep soft sand.)

September? October?, 2010, 3000 miles: I changed the oil and filter just short of 3000 miles but somehow lost the posting here. Inadvertently reverted to a backup copy I suppose.

September 8, 2010, 1752 miles: Wheel back from Woody's Wheel Works in Denver. I removed the wheel, dropped it off at Davis Service Center in Montrose, CO asking them to remove the tire, check for tire damage, send wheel to Woody's, reinstall tire and balance. Total cost was under $200 and I can't see where the bends were. There is no damage to paint on the rim.

August 28, 2010, 1752 miles: During routine cleaning and inspection, I discovered the rear rim on the DL650 has a bend at bead, both sides. I think I know why. On Thursday, August 26, while riding over 100 miles of unpaved roads, often at high speed, I hit a cattle guard that, although innocent appearing, resulted in the rear tire impacting something high enough that the suspension did little to absorb the jolting shock. I'm thinking the cattle-guard cross bars had been bent down by a heavy vehicle, exposing the vertical edge of the pit. If so, don't know why I wouldn't have seen that as I approached. May have been something else I remember hitting hard on a rocky 2-track road a few days before. In any case, I don't fault the DL650; this is the first time I bent a wheel on one. I'm hoping to get it straightened as a new rear wheel costs from $477 to $680 depending upon which Internet source one believes.

August 23, 2010, 1031 miles: Careful testing at 40, 60, 80 and 100MPH reveals a consistent 8% fast speedometer error. It's sobering to know one would have to be registering between 108 and 109MPH to do a true 100MPH. This would indicate post Euro-3 DL650's are not fast. However, the powerful mid-range serves me well; I have little need to go over 100MPH. The odometer recorded less than 1% more mileage than the motorcycle traveled, an insignificant error for my purposes. Therefore, my break-in high fuel mileage numbers were accurate but my third tank resulted in only 50MPG, more what I might have expected even though this tank included many miles of slow, rough unpaved roads.

August 21, 2010, 970 miles: After some rather aggressive riding (but not exceeding the recommended break-in RPM) I still got 55.2MPG, probably better for the 2nd half of the day's ride. I turned the Garmin on a couple times but didn't have it where I could see it well. I think I may have a significant speedometer error, perhaps 8 to 9% fast. However, in the past I've often found speedometers registering speed fast with odometers accurate. Consequently, I don't assume the two displays share an error factor. I'll pin this down soon with a ride sans distractions. BTW: the fuel gauge works.

August 20, 2010, 536 miles: First Service: oil & filter, checks and adjustments. All is well except maybe fuel gauge. Bought bike with full tank; went 130 miles before first bar dropped; 2nd bar dropped at 197 miles; filled tank at 200 miles with 3.22 gallons; that's 62.1 MPG -- too good even for break-in, at least for me, but if true would make the fuel gauge slowness slightly more realistic. I'll use my Garmin to check speedometer and odometer tomorrow.

 V-Stroms I've previously owned:

Opinions Modifications and Accessories Settings

Specifications Fairing fastener hint Performance & Fuel Consumption

 2007SUZUKI DL650

My needs keep changing. After 9 months and more than 10,000 miles on my DR650, traveling remote areas of western Colorado and eastern Utah, I find my self riding with friends on big bikes—R1200GS's and DL650's. Therefore, I'm back on a DL650, a favorite motorcycle with plenty of power. I'm not sure I could pick it up in an awkward situation so perhaps I should quit riding alone into remote areas.

Accessories 
•SW-Motech crash bars and skid plate from Twisted Throttle, in stock at Davis Service Center.
•SW-Motech center stand from Twisted Throttle.
•Givi side racks, ordered from Givi through Davis Service Center.
•Pelican 1520 cases ordered from Pelican Cases-4-Less.
•Wolfman Explorer Lite tank bag from a previous DL650.
•OEM hand guards, in stock at Davis Service Center
•Front fender mud flap from J.C.Whitney (I had one left from a prior order).

July 18, 2007: I oscillate between light-weight (relatively) multi-purpose motorcycles, more-powerful mid-weight multi-purpose motorcycles and bikes more orientated towards fast twisty pavement. I'm seriously handicapped by a strong dislike for the maintenance complexity and expense of multiple motorcycle ownership. I keep trading. After 2 1/2 months and nearly 6,200 delightful miles on my 2007 DL650, traveling remote areas of western Colorado and eastern Utah, I found my self wanting a lightweight, powerful machine focused on twisty pavement but still capable and fun on gravel roads. The new, bigger supermotos, intended for street rather than track, seemed the obvious choice. I have always liked 650cc singles but wished for more power than what was available from Japanese manufacturers. The KTM 690 is such a machine. It may not be as trouble-free as Japanese engineered motorcycles and certainly the maintenance is more intensive and expensive but the race bred credentials are impeccable.

 2006SUZUKI DL650

Accessories 
•Givi side racks with Givi E21 cases -- removed after setting up my DR650 for overnight trips where the roads are questionable. Obligations at home now prevent longer trips.
•Wolfman Explorer Lite tank bag sometimes, because it's a good bag, other times a Tour Master Cortech Mini-magnetic tank bag because I find magnetic tank bags much more convenient.
•OEM tank bra
•OEM hand guards
•Front fender mud flap from J.C.Whitney

I ordered Givi side racks and OEM tank bra through my local dealer, Davis Service Center, Montrose Colorado. I already had the E21 side cases.

Traded back January, 2007 at 8,200 miles:
This Suzuki DR650 and subsequent modifications was intended for long rides into remote areas where roads may be rough. I found I was using it less for multi-purpose and more for fast sport riding, a role it performed with competence far exceeding what one might expect from price, displacement and style. Nevertheless, I wanted a little less weight, 50-50 weight distribution, wider 17 inch wheels and serious sport tires. The desire for comfort makes an upright bike mandatory. I love the Suzuki V-twin engine but with new SV650's on back-order and none available in western Colorado I traded for a Honda CB600F (Hornet), known in the U.S. as the "599."

 2005SUZUKI DL650

October 26, 2005:
In the first six months and 15,300 miles of ownership, this DL650 traveled from North Carolina to California, from Texas to Wyoming. It did over three-thousand miles of unpaved roads, occasionally at high speed. These unpaved roads varied from gentle and smooth (Keebler Pass) to steep and rocky (Pucker Pass). It carried me reliably over some of the longest, loneliest roads in the west. It was used often for touring and camping and ridden as a sport bike on more than one occasion. For all of these miles, all of these uses, this DL650 performed very well indeed. The stock seat and windscreen served me well.

A few great rides with this DL650! 
Smoky Mountain Ride    Pucker Pass    Utah Highway 72
Muley Point    Torrey    Extraterrestrial Highway

January 24, 2006: 16,944 miles
Sold on Consignment at Davis Service Center, Montrose, Colorado. Nothing wrong with the V-Strom. It was trouble free and a pleasure to own and ride. I felt I could benefit from a lighter, simpler machine and bought a low-mileage 2003 KLR650. No surprises there; this is my fourth KLR. On my KLR pages, I explain why I like them. I am getting old. I often ride alone and sometimes in remote places. In case I do drop my motorcycle in an awkward place, I'm more likely to be able to pick up the KLR. Anyway, KLR's are one of my favorite motorcycles. But I digress. I have around 40,000 miles on KLR650's and more than 30,000 miles on DL650's. Here's the bottom line: the DL650 is superior to the KLR650 in every way, even value. Nevertheless, at my age, that 80 pounds less weight may trump everything else.

More about the 2005 DL650:
This was my second DL650. On November 14, 2004, after 15,000 trouble-free and very enjoyable miles in 8 months, I traded my first DL650 for a pristine R1100RT, thinking the RT would be a good choice for a planned ride to Birmingham, Chattanooga and the Smoky Mountains in the spring of 2005. Nevertheless, I always need a multi-purpose motorcycle for the many miles of unpaved roads I ride in western Colorado and eastern Utah. The KLR650 is a favorite of mine so I also purchased a new 2005 KLR650.

On the morning of April 26, 2005, I headed for Davis Service Center in Montrose, Colorado, undecided about what to ride on the trip to Birmingham, Chattanooga and the Smoky Mountains. I didn't like the R1100RT and had it on consignment. I had bought a new ZZR1200 and loved it but wasn't really comfortable for more than 200 or 300 mile rides. My KLR650 was a strong contender and back-to-back 700 mile days on a previous KLR650 had caused no serious suffering. A new DL650 was a possibility. I was considering buying back my first DL650. Mostly I was undecided.

When I arrived at the dealership and learned a friend was planning to buy my previous DL650 if I didn't, I knew what my choice would be. Another friend had bought a new DL650 a few weeks earlier. I ride with both these guys. Had they bought KLRs I would still be riding one but they didn't. The decision was easy. I asked for numbers on a new DL650; the numbers were good; I did the deal. Accessories this time around:
•Givi side racks with Pelican cases
•Marsee Strapmount Teardrop 15 Liter Tankbag
•OEM hand guards
•Front fender extender
•SW-Motech Center Stand
•SW-Motech Crash Bars
•SW-Motech Skid Plate
•IMS Superstock Footpegs

The Givi side racks are well made and inexpensive. Pelican Cases are an acquired taste but with use have become my favorite side case. The center stand (and tubeless tires) will make roadside tire repair easier. The crash bars and skid plate are mostly for looks; I don't intend to need them. I prefer solid footpegs to rubber ones. The hand guards are for keeping my gloves bug-free. The Marsee Strapmount Teardrop 15 Liter Tankbag looks like it was made for the V-Strom tank. The fender extender is an obvious asset if the roads are wet or muddy.

I ordered Givi side racks, OEM hand guards, SW-Motech items and IMS foot pegs through my local dealer, Davis Service Center, Montrose Colorado, an authorized dealer for both Givi and Twisted Throttle. I ordered the fender extender and Marsee tank bag from Adventure MotoStuff and was very pleased with the quick response and shipping.

 2004SUZUKI DL650

May 26, 2004: I rode this DL650 over 200 miles of track time at Jason Pridmore's STAR school. Great school, great motorcycle, great experience. More details at Fast Pavement

November 14, 2004 — Sold after 15,000 trouble-free and very enjoyable miles in 8 months without going farther than 700 miles from home. Consider it a long test ride. It did everything I wanted to do and went everywhere I wanted to go. I had nothing but praise for this versatile machine but I wanted to try other motorcycles.

The Verdict: I've owned a lot of motorcycles over the years and I've liked most of them, some more than others. A few stand out as having been especially suitable for my needs, wants and personal preferences. When I think of those, the TR6C Triumph of the late sixties always comes to mind. Also, the Zundapp ISDT Replica was a special favorite from that era. More recently, the Kawasaki KLR650 has earned a spot among my all-time favorites. All these motorcycles were street-legal, multi-purpose motorcycles and all suited me for many enjoyable miles. The Suzuki DL650 is such a motorcycle. It's inexpensive to purchase, trouble-free to own, comfortable to ride, gets excellent mileage on regular fuel, handles very well on twisty pavement with or without a load of luggage, is great fun to ride on graded dirt and graveled roads and is much faster than the 650 singles. Best of all, the delightful engine has character, a subjective quality important to me. I'm grateful to Suzuki for building it and having the foresight to send it to the United States.

Fast Pavement: The DL650 performed exceptionally well on a tight track during a two-day Jason Pridmore STAR school. Report

Touring & Camping:
Given the will, a rider can find a way to tour and camp on almost any motorcycle. My trips are short. Obligations at home limit my adventures to one or two nights, three at the most unless I make special arrangements. I try to make the best of this situation and camp frequently in mostly out-of-the way, remote spots in western Colorado or eastern Utah. The KLR was a great motorcycle for this kind of riding and I didn't really need anything different. But I no longer ride the rougher roads and trails and wanted my multi-purpose motorcycle to be more road oriented. The DL650 offers more power, better weather protection and greater comfort at a modest increase in price.

Off-Pavement Use:
Here's the way I see it: 4WD Guide books rate trails as "Easy, Moderate or Difficult." 2WD cars/pickups, V-Stroms, BMW GS's, Triumph Tigers, etc. are well suited to "Easy" trails which can be moderately rough. 4WD vehicles or KLR650s with experienced riders can do well on "Moderate" trails while skilled and determined riders can do "Moderate" trails on a GS, Tiger, or a V-Strom with appropriate skid plate. While I'm well aware that a few BMW riders have taken GS motorcycles over "Difficult" trails, I don't really see the point. Even KLRs are out of their element here. A better, more sensible choice would be a real, light-weight dirt bike with 12 inches of suspension travel. My "Difficult" trail days are in the distant past. Now, I happily do "Easy" on my DL650.

After purchasing my first DL650 in February, 2004 I waited patiently for snow to melt on western Colorado's easy, as defined above, unpaved mountain passes. In the past I've ridden a dozen of these passes, some often, mostly on an R1150GS or KLR650. What better test for the DL650 than a 450+ mile loop that strings nine unpaved passes together in one ride, one day. Report

Fast Gravel/Dirt:
Some people are never comfortable on graveled roads, others see them as a delightful place to play. Count me among the latter. I ride dirt and graveled roads on a regular basis. My speed can be over 90MPH on good, packed, straight roads or as slow as necessary on deep, fresh gravel or loose-marble corners. Both the R1150GS and KLR were fun for this kind of riding but nothing thrills me like a powerful, torquey V-twin. The DL650 is serious fun and the engine is a jewel. Set the static sag, leave the radial tires firm or the handling may be mildly erratic, enjoy. [Addendum: unbeknownst to me when this was written I would later find the KTM 690SM and Kawasaki Versys even more fun on fast gravel roads.]

Windscreen:
For me, the windscreen on a multi-purpose motorcycle should compromise between protection and unobtrusive size. I want to easily see over it when I travel rutted or rocky roads at slow speed. I want it to allow plenty of steering lock. I want my helmet visor to remain bug-free. And of course I don't want excessive turbulence or noise. I believe these expectations to be reasonable. I'm 6 feet tall with a 32 inch inseam. I find the stock adjustable DL650 windscreen in the middle position meets my expectations. The air stream hits me right above the top of my visor, keeping the visor bug-free. Turbulence is mild and noise moderate. My line of sight is well above the top of the windscreen.

Seat:
The stock DL650 seat is rounded at the front and dished about an inch lower than the DL1000 seat. The changes make it easier to maneuver the DL650 on uneven surfaces but the thinner seat seems to have firmer padding. Fortunately, I like firm padding and find the seat exceptionally comfortable. I would consider the DL1000 seat for its flatter surface but I like the lower, narrower seat for that small percentage of time I'm maneuvering on uneven ground and I don't want to spoil my relationship with the windscreen which works fine where I sit now. I like the OEM seat. [Addendum: on 08/26/04 I rode my first DL650 236 miles between fill ups without stopping. In May of 2005, I rode my second DL650 over 4100 miles in 10 days with a longest day of 764 miles. I still think it is an excellent seat.]

Tank Bag: I've used three tankbags on my V-Stroms. I bought a Marsee Strapmount Teardrop 15 Liter Tankbag which looked expensive, had a stiff, preformed shape, fit like it was made for the DL650 and served me well for a few weeks until I broke a buckle and gave it away. At various times on all three V-Stroms I've used a Tour Master Cortech Mini-magnetic tank bag (because I always seemed to have one on hand) which attaches securely but looks ill-fitting, out of place and holds far less than its apparent size would indicate. I recently bought a Wolfman Explorer Lite which fits very well (don't get the KLR650-specific mounting harness) and holds far more than its apparent size would indicate. I'm not fanatical about buying American. In fact, I'm more likely to prefer something else such as Japanese cars and motorcycles. However, when it comes to motorcycle accessories, especially sewn items like clothing and luggage, I prefer an American manufacturer I can talk to directly if necessary. Wolfman Motorcycle Luggage is such a company and, for us here in Colorado, buying Wolfman luggage is supporting a local manufacturer. Wolfman luggage has a growing number of loyal customers (I've previously owned and liked a couple Wolfman Enduro tank bags) and a reputation for well-designed, well-made products. As of this writing, 06/04/06, I haven't had the bag long but already I'm becoming fond of it. I bought my Explorer Light from Fred Hink at Arrowhead Motorsports in Moab, UT but Eric the Wolfman himself was there to show me how easily it attached to my DL650 Suzuki.

IMS foot pegs for a KLR650 fit the DL650 perfectly without modification. Not that the DL650 really needs such foot pegs but I had a new pair and tried them. I've had them on since the bike was new and like them. I move my feet around on trips -- sometimes on my toes, other times with just my heel on the peg. These serrated pegs provide more security. I've experienced no vibration in these pegs. Of course, everyone knows rubber pegs are slick when wet or muddy. I purchased my IMS footpegs on-line from Fred Hink at Arrowhead Motorsports in Moab, Utah.
       

Hand Guards. My primary reason for having hand guards is to keep bugs off my gloves. A secondary reason is to keep some water off my gloves when riding in rain. I prefer the OEM hand guard option to all others I've used or tried.

Front Mud Flap. I ride a lot of dirt and gravel roads on my DL650, sometimes at fairly high speed. I'm not keen on throwing rocks at the oil cooler. I mounted a mud flap on my front fender. I had several choices on hand. I chose to use a small rear mud flap from J.C.Whitney because it did not add new curves or shapes to my front fender. All I really wanted was a fender extender. Black nylon license-plate bolts were used for mounting.

Side racks. I've used both Givi and SW Mo-tech side racks. Both are well made: the SW Mo-tech racks are quick-removable; the Givi racks cost less and fit a little closer. [Addendum: latter style SW-Motech side racks are close fitting.] Most riders are familiar with Givi products. The German-made SW Mo-tech quick-detach side racks may need introduction. With appropriate kits, SW Mo-teck racks can fit sidecases from GIVI, Hepco & Becker, Kappa, Krauser, Suzuki (OEM) and more. The DL650 racks are not symmetrical as they would be on the DL1000. The DL650 has no muffler on the left side and that rack is set in nearly 1 1/2 inch closer. This reduces the empty space without making the lack of symmetry obvious.
   

Side cases. I've used both Givi cases and Pelican cases on my DL650's. The Pelican Cases, like SW Mo-tech racks, may need introduction.

Famously rugged, Pelican cases are ideal for a short-range "adventure touring" motorcycle. They bolt easily to the SW Mo-tech racks. I used a belt sander to remove ridges and protrusions from the back so the fit would be snug against the racks. At my local hardware store, I found Allen bolts with large, thin flat heads. I'm not sure what these bronze-colored bolts were intended for but the heads were perfect for my needs, taking almost no space inside the case. The bolts were longer than I needed; I cut 1/4 inch off each one. The racks are easily removable so it didn't bother me to bolt the cases to the racks. Nevertheless, I made this option more reasonable by ordering fitted inner soft cases as well. These inner cases are very well made with heavy, coarse-weave nylon, double walled construction over stiff foam padding. They hold their shape. The soft cases come with a bewildering assortment of velcro-attached dividers which I removed. The Pelican hard cases open like suitcases. The inner bags are both top and side loading. Access is better than any system I've owned. On the right side, opposite the side stand, I leave the inner bag in place using the rectangular hard case lid as a work table. On the left side, which leans toward the ground, I move the soft bag out and access contents on the seat. Bonus: a full-sized Rand McNally Road Atlas fits nicely in either hard case lid. After a trip, I remove perishables and set the inner bags on the shelf ready for the next trip. Empty hard cases are fine for day-tripping. On a camping trip to the Bavarian Mountain Weekend BMW rally in the mountains south of Taos, New Mexico, the functionality of these cases exceeded my expectations.
On a subsequent DL650 I bolted Pelican cases directly to Givi side racks. These cases were not easily removable but that never bothered me. I did have the fitted liners.

Pelican cases come in a variety of sizes but only one size, model 1520, has fitted inner cases available. Fortunately, this was a size that worked perfectly for me: Outside Dimensions: 19.12"L x 15.43"W x 7.56"H. This resulted in an overall width of 37 inches. That's nearly 1 1/2 inches narrower than an R1150GS with OEM side cases. Here's a couple pictures of the 1520 Pelican case and 1527 liner: picture 1, picture 2. A 1526 combination consists of both inner and outer cases together but for some reason, at two outlets I checked, the two items are about $9 less expensive if ordered separately. I ordered mine from http://www.all-pelican-cases-4-less.com/. Service was quick and efficient. I paid $79.72 each for the hard Pelican cases and $70.62 each for the soft liners. UPS Shipping from California to Colorado was $23.41. Note: the price has gone up some since I ordered these cases.

Mounting was obvious and easy. I did fasten the cases in place with double-sticky tape and bungie cords until I was sure I had them in a position I liked. I marked one case with a white grease pencil through four wide-spaced holes in the rack. Then I drilled the holes in that case and, after double-checking the fit and position, laid that case on top the other case, back to back, and marked through the new case holes with a grease pencil. After drilling those holes, I bolted the bags to the rack and was done. Well, almost done. I had a couple rectangular red reflectors laying around. I attached those to the lower backs of the bags with powerful double-sticky tape after first cleaning the spot with alcohol.

I'm not going to praise these Pelican cases too highly. We live in an age of prosperity. People seem to have an insatiable need for specialized equipment and clothing for whatever activity they do. I feel certain there will be resistance to believing gear that wasn't designed for motorcycling can be adequate, much less superior. Further more, at $317.21 for hard cases, soft cases and shipping (2004 price), how can this system possibly be acceptable.

These bags would not be convenient for people living in, or traveling frequently through, areas where they wished to keep the bags locked. The only provision for locking requires padlocks. That won't matter much out here in western Colorado and eastern Utah. I appreciate the ability to get into the cases with out fooling with keys. Perhaps I'll carry a couple small padlocks just in case I visit a city.

Pictures. Click for enlargement.       

Gerbing's Heated Clothing. I ride a lot in the winter with temperatures sometimes in the teens. Heated grips don't keep my fingertips warm. I decided to try heated gloves and, since the gloves must plug into something, it seemed reasonable to use a heated jacket with gloves that plug into the sleeves. Heating the upper torso is known be a good thing and an aid to warming the extremities. The objective here is to avoid that chilled-for-the-day feeling I've come to expect when starting a long ride on a cold morning. Once "chilled to the bone," as they say, I then feel chilled even in 50 degree temperatures.

I now use a Gerbing's Jacket, gloves and controller setup on my DL650 and other bikes. The results are all positive. I was concerned that wiring and hookup would be a bigger nuisance than I wanted but it seems simple enough. I use about 1/3 power when it's cool -- say 35 to 45 degrees. at 25 to 35 degrees I may use 1/2 power or more and in the teens or single digits I use 3/4 power or more. Oddly, I almost never feel the heat in my gloves but my hands and fingers do not get cold.

Not all motorcycles can handle the power required for the colder temperatures. Example: My bigger bikes such as the DL650 V-Stroms, BMWs, Honda 599 etc. have handled nearly full power for indefinite periods. My KLR650's and DR650 could handle only 1/2 power or less. [Addendum: the 2008 and later KLR can handle the Gerbing's gear, especially with the high beam off.] How do I know this? On the KLR650s or DR650 I've used a charging indicator that is essentially a voltage indicator. This warns me if the output is insufficient for the load and, if heeded, prevents me from discharging the battery. On my present DR650 I use a Heads-up Voltage Indicator from Custom Dynamics. This device uses one small bulb capable of a flashing or steady light in one of three colors to indicate whether the system is overcharging, undercharging or within the correct range. Without it, I wouldn't have a clue whether the charging system was keeping up or not. Of course, the results would be different if the bike powered any additional electrical components such as auxiliary lighting.

After repeated use of the Gerbing's jacket liner and gloves with thermostatic temperature controller over a couple winters, here's how I keep warm and functional with temperatures in the teens or single-digits: light, long-sleeved cotton T-shirt, Gerbing's heated liner-jacket, heavy Aerostich fleece liner-jacket, Warm, waterproof but breathable outer jacket, Gerbing's heated gloves, overpants over jeans and 2-ply cotton/wool long underwear lowers, loose-fitting SIDI On Road Sympatex boots with normal everyday cotton socks, HJC AC11 helmet with mouth guard and a light coating of Fog Tech on the face shield. [Addendum: I now use the expensive fog-free shields and have no fogging problem.] This works for me. Gerbing's is the only heated gear I've used so I can't say how it compares with other brands. [Addendum: I've since use a Widder heated vest and heated gloves and found them adequate. The wattage is about half that of the Gerbing's gear but that's enough for most of my winter riding. I don't miss heated sleaves. Of course, Widder went out business at the end of 2008 but there are other brands.]

Over the years, I've ridden with several people who experienced failure of power delivery to their heated gear during the ride. Mine has never failed but nevertheless, I consider it prudent to carry spare fuses and clothing adequate for riding without heat if necessary.

Suspension: I weigh 185 lbs. without riding gear. I never ride two-up. I like to ride fast on both paved and graveled roads. I especially enjoy high-speed paved sweepers at steep lean angles. I have no real complaint with the DL650 suspension and no plans to replace or modify anything. I started with all suspension settings adjusted according to recommendations found in the owner's manual and altered these settings only when I had a clear notion of how I might benefit from a change. I found the springs somewhat stiff for spirited off-pavement riding and reduced preload accordingly. Not wanting to change adjustments for different surfaces, I sought a compromise that would work well for fast pavement cornering while providing a reasonably supple ride off-pavement. According to the owner's manual, the standard front preload is position 3 with position 5 being minimum preload. The standard rear adjustment is position 2 with position 0 being minimum preload. I changed to position 4 in the front and position 1 in the rear. I did not change rebound damping in the rear. I found these new settings to be noticeably different and much better suited to my riding habits. However, in preparing the DL650 for a Jason Pridmore track school, I checked static sag. A balanced setting for me, about 30 percent of travel front and rear with my weight on the motorcycle, turned out to be no preload in the front and 3 lines of preload in the rear. A brief test ride on familiar twisty roads went well. This setting worked very well on the track. See STAR. This setting does make the front end much more sensitive in fast paved Sweepers at speeds over 100MPH -- partly because it raises the rear and lowers the front when the DL650 already has a steeper rake than the DL1000. I did find a DL1000 to feel more "planted" at 85MPH on a graveled road but I can't say I preferred one over the other.

Fairing fastener hint:

Sooner or later, a new owner will have to remove some plastic body parts. This may necessitate extracting a few interesting little plastic fasteners. These fasteners can be removed and re-installed without damage but the procedure is not intuitive. For the owner who hasn't encountered these fasteners before, here's the procedure:

The fastener is a two-piece item. A center pin, when pushed in flush, spreads the fastener and holds it tight. Depressing this pin farther into the fastener relieves this spread. To remove the fastener, apply the tip of a very small Phillips screwdriver -- any small, blunt-end tool will do -- and depress the pin into the fastener, maybe 1/8 of an inch or so, then slip a pocket knife blade or similar thin item gently under the edge of the fastener and lift it out.

To reinstall, pull the pin out of the fastener a bit, maybe 1/4 of an inch or less, put the fastener into the hole and push the pin in flush with finger or thumb. That's it.

2004 Specifications:
Engine: 645cc, four-stroke, liquid cooled, 90 degree V-twin, DOHC, 8-valves
Bore Stroke: 81.0 x 62.6mm
Compression Ratio: 11.5:1
Fuel System: Fuel Injection
Lubrication: Wet sump
Ignition: Digital/Transistorized
Starter: Electric
Transmission: 6-speed
Final Drive: #530 chain
Overall Length: 2290mm (90.2 in.)
Overall Width: 840mm (31.9 in.)
Overall Height: 1390mm (54.7 in.)
Seat Height: 820mm (32.3 in.)
Wheel Base: 1540mm (60.6 in.)
Ground Clearance: 165mm (6.5 in.)
Dry Weight: 189kg (417 lbs.)
Suspension Front: Telescopic, cartridge-type, oil damped, adjustable preload
Suspension Rear: Link-type, adjustable spring preload and rebound damping
Brakes Front: Dual hydraulic disc
Brakes Rear: Single hydraulic disc
Tires Front: 110/80R-19
Tires Rear: 150/70R-17
Fuel Tank Capacity: 22 liter (5.8 gal.)

Actual Weight:
Total weight = 461 lbs.
Rear weight = 247 lbs.
Front weight = 214 lbs.

Weighed ready to ride with 1/2 tank of fuel (3 bars showing on gauge) and without side cases and racks.

Performance:
The May, 2004 issue of Rider tested the DL650 and found 63.4 HP and 42.4 ft-lbs of torque at the rear wheel. Dynamometers vary and numbers are best used to compare two or more engines tested on the same unit. Cycle World reported 65 HP at the rear wheel.

Perhaps more important is how it feels. I came to believe the overall performance of the DL650 is very similar to the R1150GS I owned. Both the DL650 and R1150GS topped out at about 120MPH at Colorado elevations and both accelerated rather slowly above 100MPH. The R1150GS had more torque, so it felt the most powerful for ordinary riding -- just as a cruiser engine feels powerful but isn't fast. (The new R1200GS is more powerful and lighter in weight than the R1150GS.)

Fuel Consumption Summary (2004 DL650):

From 1 to 2000 miles:
Average = 49.6 MPG.
Best = 54.8 MPG (during break-in)
Worst = 43.2 MPG (after break-in, very fast cruising on lightly traveled western highways)

From 2000 to 12000 miles:
Average = 53.25 MPG (excluding track time).
Best = 60.0 MPG. (4 tanks at 60MPG while leading friends on a 3 day scenic Colorado ride)
Worst = 39.6 MPG (excluding track time, did include some high-speed cruising)

200 miles of high-performance track time = 33.6 MPG.

I use regular unleaded fuel -- 85 or 86 octane in the mountains, 86 or 87 octane at lower altitudes. This mileage may not be typical of what one can expect in other parts of the country due to variations in elevation and fuel content.

Author on 2004 DL650 in Colorado — Photo courtesy of Ernie Phillips.