Follow up on prior maintenance and accessories: 1. After 2227 miles and a variety of wind and weather, the windscreen modification described on July 3 below has proven every bit as satisfactory (for me) as my early impressions suggested. 2. The D.I.D. X-ring chain I installed on April 28 has already needed adjustment three times in only about 5000 miles compared to the OEM chain needing adjustment only once near the end of it's 13745 mile life. Chains don't stretch; they elongate from wear. Adjustment means wear. This does not look good.

August 10-11, 2010, 18411 miles: Back from an overnight trip to Cathedral Valley.

July 27, 2010, 17440 miles: Balancer chain adjustment lever inspection at Davis Service Center, Montrose, CO. The lever was fine; the spring was slack and would provide no more adjustment. DSC had pre-ordered gaskets, Eagle lever and springs. The Eagle lever fit snug on the shaft, the OEM lever was much less snug. DSC installed one of the new springs but did not install the new lever due to an unexpected problem. The externally accessible bolt that tightens against the lever had been loose and was irregularly worn at the end. The lever had wobbled enough from vibration to wear a groove in the generator case (inner) cover. The old lever was loose enough to fit into this groove when tightened, the snug new lever would not fit into the groove and had limited surface to tighten against. It was decided to reassemble with the OEM lever, a new OEM adjustment bolt and new Eagle spring for now. I don't expect this to cause a problem. Why did this happen? If the adjustment bolt was loose at this service (my first in a shop), then that was my fault but I do remember it was loose when I checked it the first and only time at about 12000 miles (and apparently forgot to make a maintenance log entry). Lesson learned: regardless of what schedule one believes balancer chain adjustment is needed, it might be a good idea to check the lever bolt for tightness from time to time.

July 6-7, 2010, 16930 miles: Back from an overnight trip to Canyonlands for a sunrise picture of Mesa Arch framing the La Sal Mountains. My photography was mostly a failure but the ride had good elements. Most importantly, I've confirmed my favorable impressions of the klrdash.com windscreen hardware and Zero Gravity Sport Touring windscreen (see klrdash.com windscreen report). I wish I could say the same for the SW-Motech crash bars I installed June 17 at 15399 miles. The vibration is so bad between 70MPH and 80MPH I'm going to have to remove them if I can't find a way to damp the vibration of the large protective side loops. A shame as these crash bars are well made, protective and I like the looks.

July 3, 2010, 16367 miles: I just made what, for me, may be the single most important aftermarket change to this KLR650 yet. To understand that you would have to know how important it is to me to have what I consider adequate wind and bug protection and how frustrated I've been over years of buying aftermarket windscreens. For this KLR, I knew the angle was wrong for extending the windscreen and I found a solution at KLRDASH.COM I'm writing a more detailed report on this modification and will post it and link to it in this log in a few days. Meanwhile, here are pictures:
         

June 29, 2010, 16201 miles: Installed new Pirelli Scorpion Trail front tire (reference April 28 below) after 7055 miles on the replaced Pirelli Scorpion Trail front tire which was not bald or significantly deformed. I couldn't be happier. This is the first time I haven't trashed (deformed and triangulated) a front tire to the point of evil handling in 2500-3000 miles and replaced it at 3500-4000 miles in several years. This is not a tire test as I've tried only a few of the many choices available but I have found the tire for what I do and how I ride. Summary: the Pirelli Scorpion Trail is great on fast twisty pavement and very good on high speed gravel roads. (My first rear Pirelli Scorpion Trail lasted 4600 miles as opposed to a more usual 4000 miles.)

June 17, 2010, 15399 miles: Installed SW-Motech crash bars. I've dropped this KLR twice: once getting off on uneven terrain and again getting crossed up in deep ruts and putting it in the ditch avoiding an unexpected vehicle on a seldom traveled road. Both spills were at zero speed and damage was minimal but the right lower shroud received minor scratches on both occasions—not very noticeable but I see them. I wanted crash bars before I replaced the plastic. Pros: good design, well made, strong. Cons: noticeably amplified vibration above 5000RPM. I'm told the tall side loops are the cause but people want the tall loops. I'm also told half or more riders don't notice an increase in vibration. I believe that. I didn't notice it either until I cruised at 80MPH. I don't plan to remove them.

May 31, 2010, 14540 miles: Oil and filter change, other routine inspection and maintenance. Low beam headlight bulb burned out. Switched with high beam. Will purchase new bulb ASAP.

April 28, 2010, 13745 miles: New Pirelli Scorpion Trail tires, same as described on February 23, 2010 at 9146 miles below. Actually I have only the rear new tire mounted; the new front tire rests in my garage as I have at least a thousand miles left on the front from the February 23 mounting. This is the first time in two or three years that I haven't trashed a front tire by the time the rear needed replacing. In other words, this front tire held up to my style of riding rather than becoming triangulated and weird handling by 2500-3000 miles. Add to this the fact this rear tire lasted 4600 miles, rather than 3445 miles as did the Pirelli Scorpion "ATs" I had been using before the "Trails," and obviously this is a good tire choice for me, especially since these tires work very well for high-speed pavement cornering and very well on gravel roads. That's my opinion. I'm certain there will be people who say this tire is evil on gravel. But this is my log for my reference. For anyone else my tire experiences are anecdotal, nothing more. Also installed new sprockets, D.I.D. x-ring chain and O.E.M. rubber rear hub damper. Lubed swing arm and rear suspension links—no sign the need was urgent but did it anyway. I've always changed my own chains but if I do it again I would prefer an O.E.M. endless chain. Breaking old chains for removal, cutting expensive new chains the correct length, installing master links with grease and O-rings, riveting the pins: all steps require experience I no longer remember well and tools I've lost the instructions for. An O.E.M. chain is sized, endless and requires removal of the swing arm but that's easy and the swing arm may need removal for lubrication anyway. With only a little more effort the suspension linkage bearings can be lubed as well. I have no quarrel with the quality of the O.E.M. chain. If only they were affordable.

April 20-21, 2010, 13404 miles: After contacting the Canyonlands National Park people and learning the Flint Trail was probably open, I decided to try the trip below again going south from Green River this time. It was successful but not without surprises. This ride reconfirmed what I already knew: the KLR650 is built for where and how I ride.

April 14-15, 2010, 12787 miles: Overnight Utah Trip with one 213 mile stretch non-stop on a stock KLR seat and I have no complaints (be aware the seat changed with the 2008 model).

April 12, 2010, 11940 miles: Oil and filter change, other routine inspection and maintenance.

March 30, 2010, 11305 miles: I'm beginning to regret logging the fork brace installation as results and follow up don't justify the narrative space I'm using. Before modifying the fender for clearance, I hit a bump and whacked the fender causing numerous cracks, destroying the rear portion of the fender. I ordered a new stock fender (I could have saved considerable money by getting the Acerbis Supermoto fender popular with KLR owners but I LIKE the look of the stock fender). The smart thing would have been: remove the fork brace, install the new fender and be done with it but I hated to remove the fork brace as after all I paid for it and it does prevent the forks from twisting under hard braking. On earlier KLRs, trimming the fender fork-tube skirts for fork brace clearance reduced torsional rigidity of the fender enough to allow excessive flexing. An Acerbis fender brace solved the flexing problem but an Internet search indicated Acerbis no longer offers such braces and no clearly suitable alternative was found. The 2008+ front fenders seem stiffer. I cut off the rear portion of my broken fender, cut sufficient material from the inner fender skirts of the remaining mounting and front portion to allow clearance for the fork brace under full suspension compression and reinstalled the front portion of the fender. Flex was minimal, giving me the confidence to modify the new fender. Never satisfied with protection offered by the rear portion of the 2008+ stock fender, which tapers and tucks too much for easy mudflap attachment (contemporary fenders suffer from style overruling function), I cut a 4 inch wide strip from a truck mudflap and zip-tied it to the down tube from bash plate to steering head for added mud and stone protection. With the deep fairing/tank shrouds, this addition is inconspicuous. Update: Last word on the fork brace. When I got the new fender home I realized my cutting on the old one had weakened it more than I thought. I decided not to modify the new one. I removed the fork brace and installed the new fender. I also removed the strip of truck mudflap I has ziptied to my downtube and cut a proper mud flap for the rear of the new front fender. A test ride confirmed that it didn't feel noticeably different without the fork brace. A fork brace did help the older KLRs but seems wasted on the 2008+ models. Proper suspension settings and tire pressures did make a difference with the Pirelli Scorpion Trails. Over $200 spent for fork brace and new fender and the only thing I gained was a mudflap.

March 26, 2010, 10769 miles: Installed Happy trails K9 Fork Brace. I've used them before on '07 and earlier KLRs but thought they wouldn't be needed on the 2008+ models. Soon after installing new Pirelli Scorpion Trail tires, a ride on a favorite sport bike road resulted in excessive wiggles at cornering speeds in excess of 80MPH. I was disappointed. My reaction: first I ordered a fork brace, then I reset all suspension (rear preload and rebound damping) and tire inflation settings to factory recommendations (if in doubt, I assume the factory engineers know more than I do). Surprisingly, a test ride suggested my problems were mostly cured. Now, after several hundred miles of fast riding in my favorite twisty canyons with no wiggle problems, I'm very found of the Pirelli tires (1623 miles on the tires as of this writing) and I wouldn't be installing a fork brace if I hadn't already ordered one. Update: this fork brace made no noticeable difference in the KLR's propensity for waggling at speed. It did stop the twisting motion of the forks during hard braking. It does hit the fender! It hits the inside lower portions that are curved around the fork boots. If the KLR is capable of full suspension travel, at least 1.5 inches of this part of the fender will have to be cut away.

March 2, 2010, 9318 miles: Installed new front brake pads. I was surprised these needed replacement already. Perhaps the 2008 and later OEM pads have a softer compound than that used in earlier KLRs. I replaced them with EBC High Performance Organic pads because that's what the shop recommended and I didn't really have a preference. Installation was obvious, easy and quick, even without instructions. They felt fine on a test ride although I don't intend to use them hard until after a couple hundred miles.

February 23, 2010, 9146 miles: New Pirelli Scorpion Trail tires, 130/80 radial rear, 90/90 bias front. This is a recently introduced Pirelli tire, developed for mid-sized and larger dual-sport/adventure motorcycles. I've read these tires work very well on both paved and graveled roads. March 6, 2010 update: Initially I had a problem with the old (and new) KLR propensity for waggling the bars at speeds over 80mph in fast paved sweepers. Some riders claim their KLRs don't do this. All seven of mine have done this but it's not a big deal or I wouldn't have owned seven of them. Sometimes, when one is playing in a fast canyon this is almost an asset as it tends to intimidate riders behind you. Nevertheless, I try to keep such waggling subdued with careful attention to tire choice, suspension settings, steering head bearing adjustment, wheel alignment and weight distribution. Occasionally it can be bad enough to concern me as it was with these tires (cornering at speeds over 80MPH only). My solution: first I ordered a fork brace from Happy Trails (fork braces worked for me on pre-2008 KLRs), then I reset all suspension (rear preload and rebound damping) and tire inflation settings to factory recommendations (if in doubt, I assume the factory engineers know more than I do -- previously, I had been running 35 lbs. in the rear, 28-30 lbs. in the front). I took an extended brisk ride on local twisty paved back roads as a baseline test before installing the fork brace, yet to arrive. Handling felt very good and the tendency to waggle was considerably reduced. Steering was heavier in chicane-like successive tight turns, probably because of lower tire pressure in the front, possibly because lower tire pressure in the rear extended rake a tiny bit. I probably should not have ordered the fork brace. March 6, 2010 update: A couple hundred miles of fast canyon riding -- most corners at 80-85MPH -- caused no waggling problems. All in all the Scorpian Trails described above seemed to work very well. Apparently the tire pressures and suspension settings I was using with the previous tires did not work well with these tires. April 12, 2010 update: I have nearly 3,000 mile on these tires and I still have not triangulated the front, a common problem for me. Therefore, the deterioration in handling I commonly experience has not happened. That alone is reason enough for me to buy the same tires when replacements are needed. Furthermore, it appears these tires will last another 500 to 1000 miles over what I've been using. These tires stick exceptionally well on fast pavement and gravel road traction is excellent (as I would expect from a soft compound street-oriented tread).

February 15, 2010, 8918 miles: Oil & filter change.

January 10-11, 2010, 7937 miles: Overnight winter trip to Monument Valley.

December 5-6, 2009, 6904 miles: Visited unfamiliar gravel roads with friends on Saturday; revisited familiar unpaved roads alone on Sunday. Result: inspiration! I like a familiar loop for quick, unplanned rides. I have a couple loops I ride often. One is 270 miles and includes over 100 miles of beautiful canyons including 50 miles of the my favorite sport bike road; the other is 160 miles of mixed mountain and valley roads including another favorite sport bike road. Much as I like these all-pavement loops, I also like to ride a brisk pace on gravel and dirt roads. After the December 5-6 rides, I was able to reroute the shorter loop to include 40 miles of gravel and dirt. This revised local loop, now 140 miles long, still includes the choice twisty pavement. Heavy snows came on the 7th but this route should serve me well in late spring, summer, fall and early winter.

November 21, 2009, 6062 miles: back from a heated gear test ride in low-teens temperatures. I'm fortunate. Motorcyclists are often kind and generous. When I thought I had quit riding for good at age 70, my Gerbing's heated jacket liner and gloves were several years old but still serviceable and I gave them to a friend. Six months later I reneged on quitting and bought this KLR. I couldn't afford another $300 to $400 for heated jacket liner, gloves and controller. Looked like I would have to layer up and ride with numb fingers when the temperature dropped below 35 degrees or so. I was offered used heated grips but I've had many heated grips in the past and they never kept my finger tips warm when the temperature got down in the teens. The gloves were the solution even if the wiring was somewhat inconvenient. I passed on the heated grips. Then came an email from a riding buddy from the late '60's. He had a Widder vest he hadn't used for several years and would be happy to send it to me. It came, looking like new. I wired the KLR for the Widder vest. A test ride over Grand Mesa in low twenties temperatures was quite satisfactory and my good fortune hadn't ended. I met a current riding buddy for lunch and he gave me an old pair of Widder heated gloves. I rewired my bike to power the gloves and vest both and today took a long, early-morning ride in temperatures down in the low teens or lower. My hands never got cold or even chilled. I'm going to be comfortable this winter. I can't thank these riding buddies enough.

The Widder vest and gloves, at 55 watts total, are barely more than half the wattage of a Gerbing's jacket liner and gloves and therefore ideal for 2008 and later KLR650s which have more electrical output than earlier models but still probably could not maintain charge and run the Gerbing's gear at full power for a long ride. Consequently, I always used an expensive electronic heat controller with the Gerbing's gear which reduced the power usage as well as the heat (rheostats and other resistance devices reduce heat but not power usage). In addition, rather than guess what was happening, I mounted a charging indicator that would warn me with yellow, red or flashing light when the output was insufficient for maintaining charge. With the Widder gear, I'm not concerned. The power draw is the same as either low or high beam bulbs. The low beam stays on when the high beam is on so all I have to do is remember not to use the high beam when I have the heated clothing on. What could be simpler or less expensive.

I liked the Gerbing's gear and had money been no object I would simply have bought more. So far, after riding a couple hundred miles in temperatures of low twenties to low thirties I seem to do fine with Widder. With the lower wattage I don't particularly need the electronic heat controller. I still layer up (electric gear may fail far from home) and have a good outer jacket. I'm not missing the Gerbing's jacket liner's heated sleeves (surprise). I don't yet see any difference in glove warmth. By now, everyone knows maintaining core body heat is essential to both comfort and survival. The Widder vest seems to concentrate the most heat on my chest where I most want it. I like that.

Widder closed their business at the end of 2008 but much of their gear is still available new from several sources, most notably the Iron Butt website. A Google search will reveal other sources and there is often used Widder items on eBay.

November 5, 2009, 5701 miles: New tires, same Pirelli Scorpions as mounted August 26, 2009 below. Valve clearance check; none outside range but one each exhaust and inlet on tight side of range so replaced those shims to put all near the center of range. New spark plug for no better reason than to carry the original sparkplug for a spare. Oil and filter change.

October 9, 2009, 4728 miles: I'm on a tight budget. On August 10 below I said I couldn't afford SW-Motech detachable side racks and Pelican cases. After a couple trips, one with camp gear, I re-figured the budget to include side cases. I can't praise the quick-detach SW-Motech racks enough. While many available side racks for the KLR have a homemade look (and some riders like that) these look like OEM equipment (and I like that). Installation is not exactly simple; I spent more time relocating the turn signals, with the parts provided, then the actual installation of the rack. I take my time attaching the Pelican cases to the racks as I want to be sure I don't drill holes through the cases in the wrong place. This installation progressed slowly but came out well and I'm quite happy with the results. The bike looks bigger and heavier and therefore feels bigger and heavier but I added only 22.5 pounds for rack hardware and bags. Even so, if I do decide to ride without side cases, racks and cases can be removed quickly leaving a minimum of unsightly hardware. The KLR is now equipped for everything I do. It's the only motorcycle I need.

       

September 23, 2009, 4183 miles: Tim Cantrell of Ulysses, Kansas, in the area on his VFR800, called and suggested a ride. You bet! I like Tim, he's a good rider, we both like riding the twisties -- who would say no. We met at Davis Service Center in Montrose and did a big loop including CO141 and Black Mesa (CO92), two of the most popular twisty roads in western Colorado. A storm forecast wasn't realized and we had a beautiful day, a great ride.

September 19-20, 2009, 3809 miles: 6th annual Muley Point campout.

September 18, 2009, 3120 miles: Changed oil & filter, cleaned air filter.

September 15-16, 2009, 3117 miles: Overnight trip to Utah's Thousand Lakes Mountain, Aquarius Plateau and Waterpocket Fold area.

August 26, 2009, 1622 miles: New Pirelli Scorpion AT tires (although I often use a 130/80 rear as recommended in KLR owner's manual, the available 120/90 rear Scorpion is my preferred size for the narrow 2.5 inch KLR rear rim. Most tire manufacturers agree). Dusty roads; cleaned air filter; bought spare OEM filter; serviced both with No-Toil products.

August 19-20, 2009: Overnight trip to Utah's Thousand Lakes Mountain, Aquarius Plateau and Waterpocket Fold area.

August 10, 2009, 663 miles: 600 mile service, oil & filter. Dusty roads; cleaned air filter.

August 10, 2009: I'm on a tight budget. I wanted SW-Motech detachable side racks and Pelican cases but decided I couldn't afford even that modest cost. I needed something for day trips, something to carry lunch, water, jacket liner, etc. I have a tank bag but that's for tools and tire repair stuff; I want that weight over the tank, not on the back. I wanted something water proof and lockable but with easy access. A medium-sized tail box would do but a Givi, which I like well enough, would also be more than I wanted to spend. An Internet search revealed an interesting possibility: an Emgo detachable compact travel trunk with mounting plate with measurements matching the KLR rack. Sixty dollars at New Enough, the best price I saw. Too good to be true. A Givi mounting plate alone for the Monokey series is more than that. I found web testimonials of several KLR owners who had mounted this travel trunk. None had any real negative comments; many praised it. I don't know much about Emgo but I've used their oil filters because they are inexpensive and usually rated acceptable in oil filter tests. I decided to take a chance and order the travel trunk.

The Emgo travel trunk seems well made, perhaps better than the Givi scooter trunk I used on several motorcycles over several years. Mounting was easy. I chose what I would call "the solo rider position" since I never carry a passenger — as far forward as possible without interfering with seat removal (with trunk off). There are several inches between my back and the trunk but not nearly enough for a passenger. It could be mounted much further back but I want the weight of the box and its contents as far forward as possible. The plate has a multitude of mounting holes. In the position I chose, the outer front holes lined up exactly with the stock rack front bolts. The new longer bolts supplied by Emgo were the same thread. No modifications were required at the front. At the rear, I drilled two holes in the KLR rack for bolts. I was able to place these where I could drill through the plastic rack surface and the metal plate below. Mounting is very solid.

I'm impressed with this travel trunk. It looks like it was designed for the 2008+ KLR. My measurements calculate 33.5 liters. It is not as small as it looks and the rectangular shape is surely more useful that the common more rounded shapes. It won't hold all my camping gear but it is easily removable for strapping on an Ortlieb Dry Bag that will. Most of us understand the saying, "You get what you pay for." Some of us also know there can be exceptions. I believe this to be one.

       

August 6, 2009: My KLR's speedometers were never "10% fast" as I so often read. They were about 5-6 MPH fast at any speed, not a percentage factor. This one is only 3-4 MPH fast at any speed. No big deal but it's nice to know and a further indication that one should check for themselves rather than accept what one reads on an Internet forum.

I thoroughly enjoyed my 5-plus months and nearly 9000 trouble-free miles on a KTM 690SM. I would have ridden it until summer of 2008 but for the deer incident. On January 2, 2008, I hit a deer near Disappointment Valley in western Colorado while riding my KTM 690SM on a winter trip to Monument Valley. I was traveling fast. The deer came from nowhere. The deer's head hit my headlight, shattering a handlebar fairing, destroying all plastic up front, wiping out instruments and even busting the ignition lock assembly. The body of the deer caught the right corner of the fuel tank, breaking it off. Altogether, over $1500 damage. I didn't fall but I did kill the deer and scatter bike parts all over the highway. Fortunately, the impact was above the front wheel. There was no damage to forks or frame. This wouldn't have taken so long to repair but my favorite motorcycle dealership, Davis Service Center of Montrose, CO, was on the verge of becoming a KTM dealer and I chose to wait until they could order my parts. Since I was thinking of getting a KLR the summer of 2008 anyway, it seemed appropriate to get one immediately and take my time repairing the KTM.

I've had five earlier KLR650's. Inexpensive to begin with, the fact they come with a big fuel tank, adequate seat (for me, not everyone) and large luggage rack makes the KLR650 a real bargain. It's roomy, comfortable and suitable for long trips. Power is marginal for aggressive riders yet the KLR650 can cruise all day at 80MPH. Although heavy compared to real dirt bikes, it's light compared to other adventure touring bikes. (The specs are misleading. The 2008 KLR weighs less than 20 pounds more than the previous model, not the 50 pounds more a comparison of old and new specs would indicate.) This long-time functional favorite was improved significantly for 2008 and now has better brakes, better suspension, better seat, more weather protection, bigger luggage rack and a host of detail changes and improvements that make it look less dated and more expensive.

There were alternatives. The Suzuki DL650 is enough more motorcycle than a KLR650 to make it an even better bargin but I wanted to ride some interesting and sometimes gnarly unpaved roads. I'm approaching 70 years of age and find the weight of the DL650 somewhat intimidating. I have a friend who does seemingly impossible things on a DL650, but he is 30 years younger and a more skillful rider. I like the DR650 Suzuki better than a KLR but for the small tank, hard seat and lack of weather protection or luggage rack. I've converted the DR650 for adventure touring successfully but never liked the mismatched parts look, especially the aftermarket plastic fuel tanks.

Idling in the driveway it's the same old garden-tractor sound. Once rolling it's a very different motorcycle. I've read a lot about the 2008 KLR650 from press releases, initial impressions, full tests and even that pinnacle of misinformation: Internet forums. Early on it was apparent the press release and specs were poorly written and contained errors (why claim the dry weight was 50 pounds greater than the previous model when the difference was less than 20 pounds?), glaring omissions (why did they initially not mention the 2-piston front brake caliper, something we all had wanted?) and misleading information (the usual hype). I'm hearing the owner's manual has mistakes. A thumbs down to Kawasaki for not doing some serious proof reading. Test impressions were all over the board but most testers said the bike was improved—some said improved substantially, some said not enough. Nevertheless, I was not prepared for how different this bike feels on the road after owning five of the previous model. A big thumbs up to Kawasaki for doing an exemplary job of making the KLR650 look and feel so much more expensive with only a modest increase in price. The difference is substantial and, as they say, greater than the sum of the parts. Now that I've ridden and examined one, I believe Kawasaki did all the right things.

As I saw it, after 21 years of production with minimal changes, Kawasaki had three choices with the KLR: drop it, modify it or replace it. I expected them to drop it as they had already done in Europe. Like the Concours, they could have introduced a different machine and called it a KLR but such a machine would likely have moved towards the BMW GS or V-Strom and been bigger, heavier and much more expensive, thus abandoning the KLR's special niche in the market place. I didn't think they could or would make significant improvements to the old machine without a big price increase. But they did, or so it seems to me.

Again, they had choices: they could have made the KLR more dirt-worthy or more road-worthy. They chose the latter, the correct choice in my opinion. There are no shortage of better dirt bikes but all are less suitable for adventure touring. The KLR650 was always everyman's adventure tourer, unique for offering long range and comfort in a relatively light-weight and inexpensive motorcycle capable of cruising all day on tarmac or wandering far from paved roads. It was always my kind of motorcycle. I understand it is not everyone's kind of motorcycle. But if you liked the old KLR and have reservations about the new one, at least get a ride on one before making up your mind. Nothing you read, including this, will be a substitute for your own impressions.

My big surprise was how the 2008 KLR looks and feels. I can't be sure how I think a bike looks from seeing one on a showroom floor. In my garage or on my driveway it becomes more personal. I like the look of the 2008 KLR650. The road feel is not similar to earlier models at all. It feels planted now. It also feels even bigger and heavier but "bigness" has always been one reason the KLR650 excels as a comfortable middleweight adventure tourer. The suspension, with apparently modest changes, is not similar in feel to earlier models. It's now firm but compliant. The front end has completely different habits. When I tried to induce a wobble at 60MPH, hands on the bars or off, the bike resisted as surely as any good-tracking motorcycle. Better than earlier models with a fork brace. Wind protection is as good as I expect from this type of motorcycle. Air hits about the middle of my visor. Noise is acceptable and turbulence mild. No significant amount of air enters the bottom of my helmet, important in the sub-freezing temperatures I often ride. The KLR protects my legs well also, much like a V-Strom. In fact, I guess my initial reaction is to say it feels like a V-Strom with half an engine and 80 pounds less weight. The look from the cockpit reveals nothing that reminds me of previous KLRs. The seat is very different in feel and much improved although I realize some people are never happy with a stock seat or windscreen. The engine seems smoother; the mirrors no longer blur. The power, as before, is modest—inadequate for keeping pace on the open road with fast-riding buddies on big GS's and V-Stroms but still capable of cruising all day at 80MPH. For many the power is adequate; for a few it is not.

NOTE: Generally speaking, if you want significantly more power from a given displacement you have to tune for increased RPM at the cost of less power at low RPM. My 653.7cc new-generation LC4 KTM (690 model) is rated 64HP at the crank. It's awesome from 4500 to 7000 RPM but unhappy pulling hard under 4000 RPM. The 651cc KLR is rated at about 45HP at the crank but takes the throttle quite happily from 2000 to 4000 RPM. Guess which one is the easiest to ride slow? Guess which one is the most fun in a fast, twisty paved canyon? You have to know your priorities.

As with most carburetor-equipped big singles, KLR fuel mileage can vary considerably depending upon how and where it's ridden. Fuel mileage can vary from high-30's to low-50's, the difference being determined mostly by the rider's right wrist.

On paper, the 2008 KLR650 seems to have only minimal improvements yet I find the reality somewhat different. The new 2008 KLR650 doesn't look like a KLR, doesn't feel like a KLR and only sounds like a KLR when it idles. I think Kawasaki did exactly the right thing. If only they had designated an engineer to write or edit the press release, specs and owner's manual.

After the first 3000 miles—March 2008

I really like this 2008 KLR650. So much so I feel compelled to mention factors that might cause me to perceive a motorcycle differently from how other riders might. Namely, age. I'm 69 years old and surely that makes a difference. Not that my riding skills have suffered; I'm probably faster on pavement and gravel roads than ever before and I'm loose, relaxed and confident—important characteristics in my opinion. But age has diminished my monetary resources and mechanical skill and it does influence the manner in which I perceive myself on a motorcycle. I'm very comfortable on the non-exotic, practical, reliable, functional and fun KLR650. I don't want to call it an old man's motorcycle. It's everyman's motorcycle. Nevertheless, I believe it to be a good choice for an older rider, even one with a tendency towards aggressive riding. Somehow I feel being on my KTM 690SM is boasting, even if I do ride it rather well. I'm wallpaper on the KLR and I'm comfortable with that. I certainly recognize the 690SM as superior to the KLR650 in all things relating to performance but it will always be someone else’s bike to me while the KLR is mine, the 2008 both an old friend and something new. I really like it. It's been my habit to ride a lot and change motorcycles often to broaden the experience but there will be a "last motorcycle" and I can easily imagine mine being a KLR650, even if not this one.

I've re-read my initial impressions above and all were valid. If anything, I'm even more impressed after 3000 miles of all kinds of riding except unpaved roads (after all, we have been having one of the worst winters in years). If anything I've said before needs amending, it may be my statements about power. I now believe this new KLR is faster than the old KLR. Several incidents have led to this belief; one stands out. On a recent ride, following a friend on an R1200GS Adventure, we cruised at mostly 80+MPH with some stretches indicating 90+MPH, even riding into a gusty quartering wind at 4000 to 7000 feet elevation. At one point, passing a big 18-wheeler on a downgrade, I saw 105MPH indicated. I'm not sure I've ever seen 105MPH indicated on a KLR before and this is my sixth one. I didn't have my GPS unit along but prior testing indicated about 6mph fast at any speed which means I was probably approaching a true 100 MPH—pretty rare among honest KLR riders at our elevations. I think the new fairing on the 2008 KLR may smooth the air flow. I first described what seemed to be higher top speeds on the 2008 KLR as "like it always had a tail wind." Whatever the reason, it's easier to keep up with fast highway-riding buddies on bigger motorcycles now.

I'm glad I bought this 2008 KLR650. I needed something inexpensive to ride after hitting a deer with my KTM and I expected to like the KLR well enough but I had no idea I would like it as much as I do.

After riding off pavement—Late March 2008

I now have several hours of riding unpaved desert roads, some a bit rough with loose rocks and sections of sand. The new 2008 KLR feels better, more capable, more stable than ever before. The suspension is a significant improvement, even with reduced travel. The engine pulls without protest from well under 2000 RPM in first gear. The stability at speed is impressive.

After the first 6000 miles—April 2008

I now have over 6000 miles on my 2008 KLR650 with a lot of hard pavement riding (several hours at 80 to 90MPH indicated) and a good bit of desert off-pavement including sand and steep, rocky 4WD roads. I've very pleased with how it works off pavement and find it pulls smoother from a lower RPM than the pre-2008 KLRs, negating the need for lower gearing on rough, rocky climbs. The suspension may have less travel but for me it works noticeably better than the pre-2008 KLR's. As I've said, pavement manners are considerably improved (given appropriate tires) and the seat is good for 12 hour days with few stops (apparently this isn't true for everyone).

On a recent trip, 1000 miles in 36 hours with over 200 miles off pavement, the 2008 KLR650 did not do well with my weight and a load of camping gear at speeds over 80MPH indicated for hard cornering on pavement. I mounted new Michelin Anakees for this trip and I strongly disliked the front tire from the first mile. The front tire had no directional "instincts" at any speed, even with no load on the rear. The rear tire, possibly both, drifted noticeably in corners at high speed, steep lean angles. These tires did performed satisfactorily everywhere off pavement, even at 80MPH in loose gravel. Many people like Anakees; I found this pair unacceptable. I bought them from a discount tire dealer. Perhaps the tires were too long in a warehouse, especially the 90/90 21 front which I doubt is much in demand in an Anakee as I mostly see them on bikes with 19 inch front wheels. My front Anakee wore unevenly and quickly, both sides of center, further compromising feel and handling. I replaced the Anakees with Pirelli Scorpion ATs, a tire I've used often on KLR650s and DR650s, and normal stability was restored. The Scorpion isn't available in a 130/80 17 but I believe the 120/90 17 is a better fit on the narrow KLR rim. Many tire manufacturers agree. Ride height is increased only 1/4 inch over 130/80 OEM Dunlop rear.

After 9000 miles—June 2008

For the first couple hours of a morning ride the enjoyment is so intense I'm thinking this 2008 KLR650 is the perfect motorcycle. I can't imagine wanting anything else. By the end of the day when the pace has quickened and I've chased bigger bikes in twisty paved canyons at full throttle for 50 miles, the speedometer registering between 90 and 100MPH, contending with a little head shake in 90mph sweepers, I'm wishing for more power, better suspension and a wider front tire. But that's abusing the motorcycle. I can hardly fault it for being less than perfect when used beyond any design objectives or reasonable expectations. Hard riding means different things to different people. Not many people ride KLR650s like I just described, not even many of those who might claim they do. Such riders are plentiful on the forums but conspicuously absent on the roads. Any number of KLR riders ride rougher stuff than I do now that I'm near 70 years old but I'm faster on pavement than ever before. We compensate. Ridden realistically, only a nit picker could find much fault with the 2008 KLR650. Even at abusive speeds, head shake wasn't a problem until I installed Michelin Anakee tires. Now I've replaced the Anakees with Pirelli Scorpion ATs and the stable feeling on pavement has been restored. No one really needs to corner at speeds over 85MPH on a KLR. I could get my KTM 690SM off consignment -- it is well suited to such hard riding. The fact that I don't get the KTM off consignment means the many virtues of the KLR are important to me. Besides, it impresses (or at least surprises) people if I go fast on the KLR. I'm expected to go fast on the KTM. BTW: the speedometer on my 2008 KLR is about 6 mph fast at any speed, not the 10% fast I hear frequently. I wonder how many of the riders claiming 10% fast actually checked. My 6 KLR650s were all 6-7 mph off. My latest DR650 was 10% fast at any speed; my KTM690SM was dead accurate at 100MPH or any speed until I hit a deer and had to replace the speedometer, now it's 2% fast. The point is, you have to check. The easiest and probably the most accurate way is with a GPS unit. I have an inexpensive GPS unit and speed checks are the only thing I use it for.

Think positive:

Having seen a few forum members rant endlessly about the integrity of Kawasaki and the poor quality of the 2008 KLR650, I think its time for someone to present a positive perspective.

Most happy KLR owners don't post much on forums. Complainers often post daily. Before you let a few negative posts scare you, do the math. What percentage of the forum members are complaining. On one of the more negative forums, I found less than 1 tenth of 1 percent were seriously complaining. Yet I read a posting by an angry person who had never owned a KLR650 and credited the forum with informing him that Kawasaki was a lousy company and the KLR was junk.

In my opinion, Kawasaki listened to the complaints about the previous generation KLR650 and improved everything of significance that anyone ever complained about. Here's a few things I've noticed:

The short, stock KLR windscreen with "flipped lip" can cause noisy turbulence and buffeting, depending on rider height and posture. As a six-foot tall rider, I find this turbulence and noise excessive. I almost hesitate to say that the OEM taller windshield reduces turbulence and noise for me; it might make things worse for another rider. There are other options available. I can't recommend a size because all are a compromise and I hardly know for sure what I like much less what someone one else will like. I do like the tall OEM windscreen. I've used a Clearview +11 with the top 4 inches cut off, thus removing the flipped-up lip, and with a 3/4 inch by 3 1/2 inch slot cut just above the fairing to lessen the low-pressure area behind the windscreen. Neither windscreen provided a pocket of still air for the rider's head but either were an acceptable compromise for me. My advice is to try before buying if you can find a friend with what you think you want. My solution on a previous KLR was to shorten the stock screen, thus removing the flipped-up lip and providing a smooth, quiet air flow but at the price of more bugs on my face shield.

Tankbags are useful and not all will fit the steeply sloped KLR tank. Wolfman makes at least three options: a big tank bag with a KLR-specific mounting harness. a "Lite" version of this bag, or my personal favorite small Wolfman, the Enduro model, which fits the KLR very well and allows refueling without moving the tankbag.

For riders who tour or camp a lot, side cases and luggage are desirable. I like side racks from Tim Bernard at Happy Trails. These can be used with a variety of side cases, including Givi. I have either a Givi tail box or Ortlieb Dry bag duffel for more gear. Happy Trail products can be purchased directly from Tim Bernard in Boise Idaho or from Fred Hink at Arrowhead Motorsports in Moab Utah.

Many KLR650 riders like K&N filters but if a rider rides dusty roads, especially with other riders, the K&N filter can easily become useless in one day of riding. For all-day dusty-road riding I prefer to use the OEM foam element and clean it after the ride. I carry a spare if I'm out more than a day. In my opinion, the best improvement one can make to the OEM filter is to treat it with a good foam-filter-specific treatment oil like Bel Ray filter oil.

Aggressive riders may benefit from a fork brace, especially on twisty pavement. I preferably the K-9 model from Happy Trails or Arrowhead Motorsports.

If you check the static sag and weigh less than 200 pounds, you will probably be surprised to learn the front springs are not too soft as so often claimed on email forums. The rear spring may be marginal. This is not guess work. Any serious sport bike rider knows the importance of setting static sag. KLR riders mostly ride on paved or good unpaved roads and can benefit from proper static sag. Example: I weigh 180 - 190 pounds. The KLR has 9 inches of suspension travel, front and rear. I first establish baseline measurements with wheels off the floor and suspension fully extended. Seeking a rule-of-thumb sag of 30% to 1/3 of travel, I measure only 2 1/2 inches of sag at the front forks with my weight on the bike. This is a little less than 28%, indicating the springs may be marginally too stiff but certainly not too soft. I could cut shorter spacers and adjust the preload but I won't; this is close enough for me. The rear springs are a bit soft for me although perhaps just right for the rider of average weight. Example: with the rear preload on the softest setting, I get 3.5 inches of sag with my weight on the bike when I'm wanting no more than 3 inches. A couple clicks of preload (with one click on the rebound damping adjuster to compensate) mostly cures this. If I consistently carried heavy loads or a passenger, I could benefit from a stiffer rear spring — but not so stiff as to upset static sag.

Few things about the KLR get more attention than mufflers, airboxes and jetting. Motorcycle owners, perhaps more than most vehicle owners, seem compelled to "improve" on what factory engineers have done. I know: it's true that mufflers and air boxes are muffled to suit noise regulations and carburetors may be lean in the interest of emissions. I also know this truth to be mine: at the altitudes I ride — 4,000 to 13,000 feet — the KLR650 comes as close to running perfectly as any carbureted motorcycle I've ridden. I've yet to ride with other KLRs, with all the trick parts and air box modifications, that performed better than my stock bike. Many performed poorly at some point in the ride. They all made more noise. Noise is commonly mistaken for power. Seat-of-the-pants is a notoriously unreliable dynamometer. Given this truth, it's easy for me to refrain from modifying muffler, airbox and jetting [unless I have a specific problem to diagnose and solve]. People near sea level may know a different truth but I've been briefly at 190 feet below sea level in Death Valley and my stock KLR ran fine.

There are very few tuners good enough to improve on what the factory engineers have done and the ones that can are busy making race bikes perform better with a much different power band than any engineer, or normal rider, would consider appropriate for street use. Unfortunately, exhaust, air box and carburetor modifications are urban legend and, like believing 21 inch front wheels on any bike, no matter how big and heavy, will make it a dirt bike (with the exception of Harley-Davidson where a 21" front wheel makes it a custom), this legend will live for years. I'm told there are Honda dirt bikes that come out of the box "corked up" and modifications to the airbox and exhaust are routine but that doesn't mean the KLR always needs modification. The KLR was engineered to be a street bike, not an off-pavement race bike.

The air/fuel mixture of an engine is science. Adding more air on a stock KLR won't help unless the engine is running rich or one makes it richer to compensate. This has limited usefulness on stock engines. You have to be able to move this increased volume of air and fuel all the way from airbox through the exhaust and do so in a manner that doesn't harm rideability. A free-flowing exhaust may cause a KLR to need more air and richer jetting but chances are the results will be marginally more power somewhere in the power band and less in others. I've yet to ride with a modified KLR that could demonstrate improved power. Popping a few parts in and making holes in the airbox because one read about it on the Internet is not the correct approach. As I said, "Seat-of-the-pants is a notoriously unreliable dynamometer." That's why I have a fixed test loop with hills and straights which I use repeatedly.

I have tested a Staintune (Australian) muffler. Impressions: beautiful finish, perfect fit — better fit than any aftermarket pipe I've seen on a KLR650. Performance: The Staintune robbed me of several mph top end on familiar roads, familiar tests, tests I've done on other KLR650s. The Staintune also made this KLR a slug in the upper mid-range and made the top-end over-rich at WOT to the point of stumbling. It did sharpen response and torque around 2000 RPM which could make it a more responsive dirt bike in the slow stuff but at the cost of a terrible racket.

To be fair, the pipe I tested had a small dent caused by the rear brake caliper when used on a KLR with 1 inch lowering links. I suppose the dent could have hurt performance. After all, the shape of the muffler interior is supposed to be "designed." Nevertheless, I don't want one. This was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to borrow a Staintune for testing. I will be forever grateful but the muffler was returned to the owner.

I put the stock pipe back on and repeated my test ride to confirm the Staintune pipe had degraded performance. It had, except at 2,000 RPM where the Staintune clearly improved response and torque. I realize one motorcycle, one experience is not a scientific test. Nevertheless, I wouldn't want a Staintune muffler. It's loud, even with the baffle in and I don't like the sound.

The front brake is adequate for my use. To be fair, though, I should mention that I live in Western Colorado and spend very little time in heavy traffic. I don't want braided stainless encased brake lines. I use the front brake on gravel and dirt and don't want to change the graduated feel.

The seat, a highly personal thing, is adequate for me. However, since I ride over 20,000 miles each year on different motorcycles, my butt is perhaps acclimated to motorcycle seats. I have ridden my KLR 1,416 miles in two days and suffered no unbearable discomfort (notice I didn't say I was never uncomfortable). On the open highway, I often ride with my feet on the passenger footpegs. This rotates my body forward, transferring more weight to my thighs.

More on sand: a rider should not believe that a different tire tread can compensate for a lack of steering control in deep sand. The KLR is heavy; the tire stylishly tall and narrow; the front tire sinks easily in sand, reducing trail to zero or negative and the bike won't steer. This is a natural phenomenon and not a problem with the motorcycle. The traditional solution is to stand on the pegs, butt back, and keep the throttle on. Weight back and throttle on lightens the front, giving the tire a chance to stay on top. Standing on the pegs allows quick body-English, improving steering immensely. I'm not suggesting that anyone having problems with deep sand should do this. If you run out of throttle before you run out of sand, you may go over the handlebars. I don't want that to be my fault. If you are having trouble in sand, though, you might experiment — at your own risk.

I wouldn't trust the stock composite skid plate in rocks. Good after-market replacements are available for well under $100.

The stock gear-change lever breaks easily at the weld, especially if you have bent and straightened it. Stronger after market levers are available. Be careful, though. The IMS lever, if not changed since this writing, is an inch longer than stock. Unless you have big feet or are used to moving your foot to shift, you may not like it. I use one made by McDonalds and it seems about the same length as stock.

There are a few other items worth mentioning. Because I ride in the winter I like a remote sensor thermometer with the sensor just behind the lower grill on the small KLR front fairing — not too close to the headlight heat. This thermometer at $17 is a bargain as are many items in the Aerostich catalog. When it's below 40 degrees out, I often wear a Gerbing's heated light jacket/liner and heated gloves with a variable controller. The KLR can handle these items up to 1/2 power without discharging. Above 1/2 power, one needs to turn the headlight off with a switch available from Fred at Arrowhead Motorsports. I take the guesswork out of this procedure with a Charging System Indicator. Several are available. I have often used a small analog clock with a sweep second hand, also from Aerostich for only $15, another bargain. This clock clips to the handlebars. Vibration must not be a problem as I've had this clock on two KLRs, a Buell and maybe other motorcycles.

There are two reasons why I believe the KLR should have a 19 inch front rim and wider tire: with leading-axle forks, the KLR already has insufficient trail for serious sand riding. The narrow tire sinks easily, reducing trail even more or making it negative, and the bike can't track. Many people attempt to solve this tracking problem without understanding suspension geometry. Some people blame tires because that's easy. It's not easy to increase trail significantly even if you understand it (lowering the rear a little or extending the forks a little makes a very small difference in trail) but it is easy to increase tire width. As the tire gets wider and fatter, the wheel must be wider and also smaller in diameter to keep ride-height near what it was. The 2nd and most important reason for me to use a wider front tire is the improvement in pavement handling. I'm guessing that, in addition to the obvious benefits of having more rubber on the road, the increased mass means greater gyroscopic action, thereby improving stability as well. Additionally, braking is improved and the KLR can now benefit from serious brake upgrades such as a larger rotor and perhaps a 2-piston caliper, a desirable upgrade for people who ride in heavy, fast traffic or ride seriously fast on twisty paved roads. The down side is a modest increase in unsprung weight. This could be important in some kinds of competition, but on a KLR?

At 17,600 miles, I converted my 2002 KLR to a wider, 19 inch front rim with a wider tire [currently installed on my 2005 KLR]. I also installed a K-9 fork brace. The purpose of these modifications was to cure real and imagined problems with the light-feeling KLR front end. Stock KLRs do have a tendency to wiggle a bit at speeds over 90MPH indicated. It's not a big deal but it's noticeable. Assuming steering-head bearings are good and properly adjusted, wheel and fork alignments are correct, tires are not worn unevenly, static sag is adjusted to suit the riders weight and rear rebound damping is set appropriately, then the next logical step is to put a greater tire footprint on the road and install a fork brace to address the arguably spindly forks.

I chose an Excel rim thinking it would be at least as good as the stock KLR rims. I went conservative on rim width and tire size (1.85 and 100/90 19) because Kawasaki, for whatever reason, tends to use narrow rims on the KLR and I wanted the front to be, and look, compatible with the rear. Also I wanted it to look like a factory product. I believe it does.

My KLR was ridden aggressively with the 19 inch front wheel before installing the fork brace. Both the wider tire and fork brace made equally noticeable differences. Together, they have transformed the motorcycle — made it feel like a more expensive machine. Experimenting is expensive and I was afraid I might be wrong about the results. But I wasn't wrong. I'm very pleased with the results for the way I ride. A serious rough off-pavement rider might not like it but a KLR isn't intended for serious rough off-pavement riding anyway. Pavement riders should love it. I was already cornering fairly fast on the KLR on pavement. Even if I'm not faster now, I'll be cornering with a lot more precision and feel. Some riders believe a 21 inch front wheel gives a larger diameter making it easier to traverse uneven surfaces but my 19 inch wheel and new 100/90 tire is only 1/2 inch smaller in diameter than the previous 21" wheel and worn 90/90 tire. Ride-height has changed only 1/4 inch. I'm using Metzeler Tourance tires. The results could vary with a different tire brand. Not all tires are the same diameter for a given size.

November 2003, 16,500+ miles on my 2002 KLR650: Davis Service Center, Montrose, Colorado, was asked to replace the stock counterbalancer chain tensioner lever with a stainless steel upgrade from Eagle Manufacturing & Engineering. This was to be preventative maintenance. Upon internal inspection, the stock counterbalancer chain tensioner lever was found to be broken. When the case on the opposite side of the engine was removed to retrieve the broken tensioner lever pieces from where they were expected to be resting near a screen in the oil system, additional broken metal from another source was found. The outer race or bearing retainer on the transmission main shaft bearing had disintegrated. The bearings were still more-or-less in place and this problem was not yet apparent when operating the KLR. The transmission main shaft bearing failure on my KLR is apparently not a common problem. No one knows why mine failed. There is no evidence that broken pieces from the counterbalancer chain tensioner lever contributed to this problem. After examining the failed transmission bearing parts, Kawasaki USA generously paid for engine disassembly and replacement of the transmission main shaft bearing even though the motorcycle was out of warranty. Kawasaki did not acknowledge any problem with the counterbalancer adjustment parts.